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Do the nueva trucks trans- form those borders or merely reify them? (however briefly), the trucks help bring hidden social patterns into greater relief. For example, by design, many loncheras seek out customers otherwise underserved by existing foodways, bringing into the open the voids and gaps in food distribution.6 In other cases, the proximity of […]

Life beyond the Kitchen Doors: Why Did the Chinese Endure Such Hard Work? The family dispute over Shuck Wing’s intended restaurant was a classic con- flict of the individual versus the collective. The twist in this story is that Shuck Wing sought to serve the Chin clan by opening a restaurant, a move that key

Dishing Out Chop Suey: What Was It Like to Work in a Chinese Restaurant? Because Shuck Wing spoke no English and was now an ocean away from Dragon Village, the Chin family in North America helped him settle into his new life. The day the U.S. Immigration Bureau released Shuck Wing from its custody, he

Leaving Home: How Did Chinese Restaurant Workers Get Here? For men like Shuck Wing, coming to the United States was as natural as get- ting married, fathering children, or dying. For generations, the Chin family had been sending young, able-bodied men from Dragon Village, a small vil- lage on the southern coast of Guangdong Province

Makes 16 servings. Source: files of the Hawaii State School Food Services program Sweet-Sour Spare Ribs (or Pork Chunks) 4 to 5 lbs. pork spare ribs (with “soft” bones) or chunks of pork butt Seasoned flour (optional, see below) 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 to 3 inches peeled fresh ginger, grated or minced ½ cup

Appendix: Frequently Requested Recipes The following are some of the recipes documented from school or cafeteria worker files or recreated from “skooldayz” memories by food writer and editor Wanda Adams. Spanish Rice 2 cups uncooked long-grain white rice 3½ cups half water and tomato water (drained from canned tomatoes, see below) ½ green bell pepper,

Concluding Thoughts on Culinary Citizenship: Becoming Americans in the Cafeteria In an article entitled “The Gourmetization of Hummus in Israel,” anthropolo- gist Dafna Hirsch discusses the meanings given to and political claims made of Christine R. Yano (with Wanda Adams) 44 hummus: “The meaning of hummus for Arab-Jewish relations is not given, but is a

The Legacy of School Lunch: Plate Lunch, Local Identity, Nostalgia The plasticity of school lunch as an icon in postwar Hawai‘i suggests both shared local identity based on the common experience of a public school education, as well as subdivisions of a place-based identity dependent on the particular school (and its lunch) of one’s childhood.

Portrait of a Cafeteria Lady (Interview with Wanda Adams) Some cafeteria ladies became famous within their small circles, and some of their recipes have appeared in community cookbooks over the years. One of these was Mrs. Eleanor Kim Tyau, a Korean American who was born in 1915 in Kona on the island of Hawai‘i, moved

The Food They Served: Hawaii-Based American Food The civic achievement of school lunch may not have been a conscious adminis- trative decision to serve American food (or its interpretation). Rather, cooking and serving American food in large quantities was part of the training of cafe- teria workers and heads, as well as an expectation of